Perang Penang: Day 3 — Tepak Sireh, Books and Tea

A Sunday of farewells, pasar karat treasures, P. Ramlee, two old mosques, books and tea.

Arriving at Lorong Kulit Flea Market on Sunday — Sunday at Lorong Kulit Flea Market.

The opening Day 3 walk through Lorong Kulit.

Lorong Kulit and the Tepak Sireh

0945 hrs. We were on our way to the flea market after Mak entered the departure gate.

Lorong Kulit reminded me of the old Sungei Road in Singapore. It was more pasar karat than ordinary market, full of nostalgia: cassette tapes of Sentimental Hits and Solid Gold, Madonna, Stevie Wonder and a couple of Chicago tapes. You had to inspect the tapes carefully because some were dubbed.

There were old, heavy bronze irons that used charcoal, parangs, tools and all sorts of brassware. Then I found the tepak sireh tembaga. I brought the price down from RM280 to RM200 and bought it for myself. Tu dia.

Brassware at Lorong Kulit.

Elsewhere were watches, necklaces, shoes, handbags of uncertain originality, clothes and long rows of fruit stalls. The Mrs bought herself socks. I bought stickers for the kids at home.

One last walk through the market.

P. Ramlee’s Birth House

1120 hrs. We left for P. Ramlee’s birth house and arrived at about 1130 hrs. It was within eight minutes’ walking distance. Along the way, we stopped at a small bridge with the mountain and stream in the background.

At the house, an enthusiastic security officer greeted us and told us about P. Ramlee and his history. He said I looked like Jins Shamsuddin. Kembang sekejap. Pffft. The way he told the story, it felt as though he had been around when everything happened. Hahahaha.

P. Ramlee was born to a Penang mother and a father from Aceh. Supposedly, his father arrived by sampan, and the one stored beneath the house was believed to be the actual sampan itself.

Among the belongings on display were his bicycle, original typewriter, bed, luggage and white shoes. We also took a picture sitting on a red scooter, although I was unsure whether it had any history. Some of the items were in the museum beside his kampung house.

1200 hrs. We left for Urban Suites and had a good rest.

The Wrong Tajuddin

1430 hrs. After our rest, we left for Little India and Tajuddin Hussain Nasi Kandar. Unfortunately, it was closed on Sunday, so we settled for the namesake Tajuddin Restaurant across the road. The mamak confirmed that Tajuddin Hussain closes on Sundays.

I should have checked first. I had assumed that, being Sunday, the place would be bustling and bursting. To my surprise, there was hardly anyone on the streets. The food was okay. Not what we had envisioned, but okay lah. Alhamdulillah. It cost RM48.

The entrance and signboard of Tajuddin Restaurant — Tajuddin Restaurant.

Rice and dalcha at Tajuddin Restaurant — Lunch at Tajuddin.

The family meal spread at Tajuddin Restaurant — The table at Tajuddin.

Masjid Kapitan Keling

I made my way to Masjid Kapitan Keling, a must-visit while in Penang. We walked past Tea Kadai, which our cousin had recommended, but we were full and decided to leave it for later.

At the mosque, I took wudhu from the well—old-school style—prayed two rakaat, took some pictures for the memories, then left to meet the Mrs and Adina farther up the street.

Masjid Kapitan Keling from the street.

The mihrab and wooden minbar inside Masjid Kapitan Keling — The mihrab and wooden minbar.

The ornate dome and ceiling inside Masjid Kapitan Keling — The dome overhead.

The wudu area at Masjid Kapitan Keling — The wudu area.

Areca Books

We walked to Armenian Street. It was similarly devoid of people. Then we came across Areca Books, filled with books about Penang, Malaysia and Southeast Asia.

I bought a couple of books on the history of the Malay language—a manual and a customs book—and spoke with the curator and manager, Mr Fahmi. He had visited Singapore before and would visit Wardah Books in Arab Street. He also owns a nasi ulam shop that opens from 1130 to 1500 hrs.

Looking through Areca Books.

Areca Books chalkboard sign at 72 Lebuh Acheh — Areca Books, established 2005.

The shaded entrance of Areca Books — The bookshop entrance on Lebuh Acheh.

Masjid Melayu Lebuh Acheh

We passed another mosque, Masjid Melayu Jamek Lebuh Acheh. The call to prayer had sounded, so I decided to pray Asar here even though I had performed jamak earlier.

Masjid Melayu Jamek Lebuh Acheh with its minaret and exterior sign — Masjid Melayu (Jamek) Lebuh Acheh.

Ornate interior of Masjid Melayu Jamek Lebuh Acheh — Inside the mosque.

Wandering Through Old George Town

After prayers, I met the Mrs and Adina again. Adina got herself a phone cover and had a screen protector fitted. We continued through the craft shops, architecture, murals and streets of the heritage quarter.

A craft shop in the George Town heritage quarter — A craft shop along the way.

The red and white Central Fire Station building dated 1908 — Central Fire Station, 1908.

A large street mural in George Town — One of the murals along the heritage streets.

Tea Kadai

We walked back to Tea Kadai to close our visit to Little India. I had masala tea, the Mrs had coffee, and Adina had a soda and brownie kunafa. The bill came to RM39.50.

Inside Tea Kadai.

Ahmad and his wife at Tea Kadai — Together at Tea Kadai.

End of Day 3

1800 hrs. We were back at Urban Suites. The Mrs and Adina were worn out. Time to prepare for Penang Hill.